Princeton by the Sea Memories

Story from John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])

Hi June,

I’m beginning to think James Denniston is my favorite Half Moon Bay pioneer. Here’s four more newspaper stories about events related to him.

The first is a mention of him being given governmental permission to build a wharf. I believe this is the “Old Landing,” you mention in a story about him, and is the wharf shown on the 1863 Coast Survey map of Half Moon Bay I sent you ScreenShots of.

His rancho, centered on the location of  present day Princeton-by-the-Sea, was obviously an excellent flotsam and jetsam collection area given this newspaper mention in the September 25th, 1857 issue of “The Daily Alta.”

“A GOOD WHALING GROUND—Another huge whale came ashore a few days ago, on the ranch of  James Denisson,(sic) making it the third which has come ashore in the same place within the last eight months. This is larger then either of the others. It is of the species known as “humpbacks,” and measures sixty five feet in length. It is estimated it will yield forty barrels of prime oil.”

I found this mention amongst legal postings in the January 31st, 1858 issue of “The Daily Alta,” under the heading of “General File.” I wonder if his treasures from the sea from just a few months before went to finance this improvement, which was critical  to Half Moon Bay’s early development?

“Act to authorize James Dennison (sic) to build a wharf at Half Moon Bay, was passed.”

Just a few years later, he appears again in the troubled news of the day, in the July 16th, 1861 issue of “The Daily Alta.” Just months before the Southern states had rebelled and the attack on Fort Sumter had occurred.

“A CALIFORNIA CAVALRY REGIMENT—By notice elsewhere it will be seen that James G. Denniston has taken steps to form a Regiment of Cavalry in California, to assist in sustaining the Administration. A meeting of those favoring the purpose is called for Saturday evening, at the Mission Dolores. Under the tuition of Mr. Denniston, a regiment of calvary would reflect no discredit on our boasted horsemanship.”

And finally on August 3rd, 1868, “The Daily Alta,” had a short mention of what I believe is the Amesport Wharf. This helps to locate Denniston’s wharf as the one on the Coast Survey map.

“We learn that a new wharf is being constructed at Half-Moon Bay, which is to be one thousand feet long—and five hundred of which are already completed. The wharf is about one half way between Spanish – town (sic) and the present landing at Denniston’s warehouse. It is expected that coast steamers will stop at the new wharf.”

October 18, 1921

From a San Francisco newspaper

“Whale Washed Ashore Near Moss Beach

“A fifty-foot whale was driven ashore at Princeton-by-the-Sea, two miles south of here [Moss Beach] last night. The animal is stranded so high that spectators may walk out to it almost dryshod. Whalers from the whalery at Moss Landing in Monterey County killed the whale this morning as soon as they were notified of its landing.”

From the Call, 1921

“Warrants were out today for the arrest of members of a gigantic bootleg ring whose operations extend from Vancouver to San Francisco, as a result of a confession obtained by John Exnicios, mobile prohibition supervisor, from Giovanni Patroni, owner of the resort at Granada on Princeton Bay.

“One of the ringleaders is declared to be a woman. Two are named as members of a large firm in Vancouver who have been shipping the liquor in Princeton Bay and thence to this city.

“Exnicios characterized the smuggling ring as one of the biggest uncovered in the United States.

“Patroni, a member of the ring, admitted that he has smuggled high grade liquors valued at thousands of dollars. Four others are said to be named in the warrants issued by Federal Commissioner Thomas E. Hayden at the request of Exnicios. Patroni was brought in yesterday and released on bond.

“His place had been raided two weeks ago and he was held to answer on a charge of violating the prohibition law, a large amount of liquors having been confiscated in the raid. He was released on bond on that raid. No liquor was found on his premises yesterday.

“Federal Agent James P. Doyle, who accompanied Exnicios before Hayden in getting the warrants, was directed, it was said, ‘to go north’ to serve his warrants.

“Esnicios said that through Patroni’s confession the federal authorities had obtained the names of all the prominent members of the ring shipping the liquor, the names of those receiving it and the identity of the boats on which it had been shipped.

“Fishing Boats Used

“A large cargo was brought in on September 18. A large part of it was delivered to Patroni. Fishing boats were used in landing the illicit cargo from the ship.”

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[Note: Longer version of the story above.]

Princeton Bay Headquarters for Smugglers

Former Member of Gang Tells of Operations between S.F. and Canada

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Woman is Involved

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Thousands of Dollars’ Worth of High-Grade Liquor Brought Here

“With the arrest yesterday of Giovanni Patroni of Granada, on Princeton bay, Federal authorities were told of the ramifications of a gigantic bootleg ring whose operations extend from Vancouver to San Francisco, according to the confession of Patroni.

“Patroni admitted to the authorities that he is one of a ring that has been smuggling from the north thousands of dollars worth of high-grade liquors.

“Four Other Persons Involved in Ring

“In the information gleaned from Patroni by John Exinios, mobile prohibition supervisor for California, four other persons are involved in the ring. These include two members of a large firm in Vancouver who have been shipping the liquor to Princeton bay and thence to this city.

“‘We not only located enough to uncover one of the biggest bootleg rings in the country,” said Exinios, ‘but also have the names of all of the prominent members of this ring. We know the names of members of the company that have been furnishing the liquor, the names of the boats on which it is shipped and the names of those to whom it was consigned.’

“Liquor With Thousands Seized Few Weeks Ago

“Patroni’s place was raided two weeks ago and thousands of dollars worth of  bonded liquors were seized, but his arrest yesterday had nothing to do with that raid. Patroni was held to answer at that time on a charge of having violated the prohibition law and was out on bond when arrested yesterday.

“Federal Commissioner Thomas E. Hayden, at the request of Excinos, yesterday issued search warrants and warrants for the arrest of Patroni and others said to be members of the ring. Patroni was the only one apprehended. A search of his premises failed to reveal any contraband liquor, however

“Woman Believed Member Of Smuggler’s Ring

“While Exnicios would not reveal the nature of the other warrants, it was understood in the Federal building, that one of them was for a woman, said to be a member of the ring.

“When Exnicios appeared for the warrants, he was accompanied by Tom Brown, deputy prohibition director, William J. Jordan and Robert W. Gloss of the internal revenue department and Prohibition Agent James P. Doyle. Doyle, it was understood, was instructed ‘to go north with your warrants.’

“Patroni’s confession lays him liable to charges of conspiring to defeat the prohibition law. The information given in Patroni’s confession, according to Excinios, will put a stop to booze smuggling along the Pacific Coast.

“Patroni was taken before Federal Commissioner Thomas E. Hayden and later released on bond.

“With the arrest yesterday of Giovanni Patroni of Granada, on Princeton bay, Federal authorities were told of the ramifications of a gigantic bootleg ring whose operations extended from Vancouver to San Francisco, according to the confession of Patroni.

“Patroni admitted to the authorities that he is one of the ring that has been smuggling from the north thousands of dollars’ worth of high-grade liquors.

“In the information gleaned from Patroni by John Exnicios, mobile prohibition supervisor for California, four other persons are involved in the ring. These include two members of a large firm in Vancouver who have been shipping the liquor to Princeton by and thence to this city [San Francisco.]

“‘ We not only learned enough to uncover one of the biggest bootleg rings in the country,” said Exnicios, ‘but also have the names of all the prominent members of this ring.We know the names of members of the company that has been furnishing the liquor, the names of the boats on which it is shipped and the names of those to whom it has been consigned.'”

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Article followed by this Advertisement

“TAKE A YELLOW CAB

“TO Baghdad on the Beach from any point in San Francisco for $2.50 in a YELLOW CAB. Phone Franklin 4500.”

Story  by John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])

Hi June,

No real story here, but I found the offshore maps I’ve attached interesting. I’m looking for some close onshore ones like that USGS at Maverick’s you linked to once. Also, do you think this is the Old Landing, owned by Denniston, if I remember rightly from your posting? Enjoy. John

Biography of Giovani Patroni, 1928

From “History of San Mateo County” by Roy Cloud

Giovanni Patroni

“Italy has sent some of her best citizens to this country and they have been important factors in the development and business prosperity of their respective communities. Among them is numbered Giovanni Patroni, of Princeton, San Mateo county, where for many years he has been successfully engaged in the hotel business. He also has extensive farming interests, is recognized as a man of sound business judgment and is held in high regard throughout his community. Mr. Patroni was born in Genoa, Italy, on the 11th of January, 1878, and is a son of Giovanni and Catherine Patroni, the former a farmer by occupation.

“There the son was reared and secured his education in the public schools. In 1901 he came to the United States, landing at New York, whence he went across the continent to San Francisco, where he lived about two years. In 1903 he came to Princeton and conducted a hotel for a number of years, meeting with encouraging success, so that in 1911 he bought land and erected a hotel building, continuing in the business to the present time. A good manager, courteous and accommodating, he has long enjoyed marked popularity with the traveling public and has met with well deserved success in this enterprise. As he has prospered he has wisely invested his money and owns several cottages in Princeton, as well as a gas and oil service station, in the operation of which he has met with substantial profits. In partnership with Mr. [Dante]Dianda, Mr Patroni owns four hundred acres of good farm land, on which they are raising artichokes, which are rapidly growing in public favor.

Mr. Patroni was united in marriage to Miss Adele Garibaldi, who was born in Italy and came to the United States with a brother. They now have a daughter. Olivia, who is a student in the College of Notre Dame at Belmont, California. Cordial and affable in manner, and showing a fine spirit of loyalty to the community, Mr. Patroni commands the confidence and respect of all who know him.

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April 24, 1947

“Giovanni Patroni Dies on Coastside

“Giovanni Patroni, 69, prominent Coastside civic leader, died in his home in Princeton yesterday after a long illness. For many years he conducted the Patroni House at Princeton and played a major part in development of that area.

“Mr. Patroni leaves his widow, Adele of Princeton, a daughter, Mrs. Olivia Brennan and grandaughter —–of San Jose.,,,,”

From a newspaper article, dated 1927

Girl Wrapped in Seaweed Saved Two Miles From Peninsula Shore

Rescuers, Following Fisherman’s Alarm, Find Unconscious Maid in Kelp Tangle

“An unidentified girl was saved from drowning yesterday after she had been washed two miles out to sea off Pillar Point. She could not swim, and was lying unconscious in a bundle of kelp when rescued by a party sent out in boats, by John Patroni, proprietor of the Princeton House at Princeton.

“Two men companions of the girl also narrowly escaped drowning. Patroni said that about 11 o’clock yesterday morning a man dashed into the hotel and with great effort explained:

“‘I was fishing with a friend of mine and his girl. We were all washed into the ocean. She was washed out to sea.’

“He fainted before he could say more.

“The boatmen worked out more than two miles without success. Then Giovanni Galpino, in one of the boats, saw what he thought was a hand protruding from a mass of kelp. He rowed to it, and found the girl tightly wrapped in the sea kelp. With the assistance of Thomas Christianson, his companion, Galpino, got he unconscious girl into the boat.

“Meanwhile the Pillar Point party had found the other man lying unconscious on the beach.

“The girl explained that she could not swim but that she knew kelp could float. The bay is full of the seaweed and each time a piece came within reach she would tuck it under her. She did this as long as she retained consciousness. Members of the rescue party said they were forced to cut away nearly fifty feet of the seaweed before they could extricate her.

“The trio remained at the hotel until they were fully recovered and left without giving their names or addresses other than they were from San Jose.”

[Note from June: Silent film star Roscoe “Fatty” Arbuckle was an immensely popular actor in the 1920s, subject of a juicy scandal centered in San Francisco, and rumored to have haunted the bar and restaurant once called “Franks” in Moss Beach  with other silent film stars of the era. Today Frank’s is known as the Moss Beach Distillery, and it has been preserved pretty much as it was when originally built in 1927. What’s missing are the buildings that once stood in a crooked row on the cliff to the north (and rumored to be part of a bordello operation.) You can still see slices of the now gone building’s foundations next door to the Distillery. The author Erich von Neff’s story is not about Fatty himself but a bicycling relative.]

Story by Erich von Neff

Vince Gatto Slammed up against the Goodyear Tire sign stapled to the fencing encircling the track. Part of the sign peeled off. Vince’s back wheel rose momentarily from the track, and he was still pedaling. The cardboard sign became enmeshed between his chain and front sprocket, and Vince was flailing the pedals, shredding up the sign. He hung there for a split second, then he began tumbling down the banking. The sign was still caught in his chainwheel, and I heard the sign tearing as he came down. All this seemed to take place in slow motion, but really it took one or two seconds at most.

Fortunately by now the field was heading toward the opposite banking and the relief riders were safely strung out away from the spill. Even before Vince hit the bottom warm up of the track his trainers were rushing toward the banking. They pulled him out of the way of the oncoming field, because at full jam the field could swing around the 10 lap to the mile Velodrome in 10 seconds.

Harry Guidi looked at me. He didn’t say anything. But I knew Vince was finished not only for the race, but for a hell of a long while. I sat there with Harry’s army blanket draped over my shoulders. I had my racing tights and jersey on, but my partner, former six day biker, Oscar Juner, had gotten the flu, so there I was watching the race.

I heard an ambulance siren in the distance. Suddenly Harry grabbed the blanket off me. In the infield I could see Gus Gatto’s trainers refitting my Durkopp track bike with a pair of Vince’s extra track wheels, which he had mounted with Continental Holzbahn tyres. Harry gave me a push and I started down the grandstands towards my bike which was now upright and waiting on the warm up side of the track. Gus’s trainers looked and talked like trigger men in “The Godfather.” They were both about 5’9” and barrel chested with matty hair protruding over, around the neck of their sweat-stained T-shirts. As soon as I reached my machine they lifted me onto it like a rag doll. Then they pulled off my jersey and put on one of Vince’s jerseys. It was blue and said “U.S.I.” — which stood for “Unione Sportiva Italiana.” Then they pushed me into the fray. At the same time they shouted, “Kid, you gotta help Gussie out.”

I started climbing up the outer lip of the track to the top of the 55’ banking. As I said I had been given an extra pair of Vince’s track wheels. Vince always filled his tires with helium. They were “bombed to 140-150 psi and sometimes when they overheated during a race, they would burst like a cannon. Filling your tires like that is called dynamiting them. And as I rode up to the top of the banking I had the feeling I was riding something strangely alive and highly dangerous. And that’s how they made me feel. I swung past the torn Goodyear Tire sign and was looking over my shoulder for the oncoming field. Jim Arbuckle, Fatty Arbuckle’s nephew, was leading the field; we used to rib him about his uncle and he was sensitive about Fatty Arbuckle’s affair with Virginia Rapp.

I saw Gus neatly tucked in the middle of the pack. Now a board track constructed in the old six day style has a tendency to give and sway slightly. As the pack approached I could feel a rippled through the boards preceding the pack, and it was exciting to my muscles and at the same time frightening. I spotted where Gus was in the pack and dove down the banking to intercept him. Jim Arbuckle shot by followed by the Lauracella brothers, and the field, then finally my partner Gus. He grabbed me by my jamming tool tucked in my racing tights (basically a rolled piece of cloth your partner can grab hold of), and shouted, “Set me up for the next sprint.” I felt like I was being pushed by an express train when he shoved me into the field.

******

This was a team race with twelve two-man teams. In a team race one man rides the field, the other rides relief, circling slowly above the relief line halfway up the track. Riding slowly on a 55’ banking can be a bit of an art and damn hairy. Classically the teams exchange each time the field rider intercepts the relief rider. This may be occurring every 20 seconds* on a 10 lap to the mile track, and with 12 teams, 24 men exchanging, you’d better be a damn good bike handler. Especially in those days when foul rules were almost non-existent.

There was plenty of elbowing and cutting in and out. But in spite of this there were very few spills, for, by tacit agreement, riders often helped each other out to prevent the field from spilling. In a way Vince had been lucky. At least the whole damn field hadn’t run over him. He had been the unfortunate victim of crowding. When occasionally the field and relief riders bunch together on the banking crowding the highest man on the banking into the railing, simply because there is no more room. Usually you can see this coming or lean down on the next man. But sometimes it’s unavoidable.

******

The race became a blur of flashing cranks, sparks when pedals collided, jerseys darting in and out, oaths shouted when exchanges were missed, accompanied by the background cheers of the crowd and the bell whenever there was a sprint. It was a pleasure to set Gus up for the springs. (He was the sprinter and I was the jammer.) He could come through any sort of pocket and could nip the field on the line. My friend Henry McWhirter who’d raced against Major Taylor, the black World spring champion (1899), told me that Gus raced like Major Taylor did. And I know that was a hell of a compliment coming from Henry, as he had beaten World Champion Frank L. Kramer in his prime at the Sacramento Velodrome, but was always left in the dust by the “Black Whirlwind.”

So far the field was on even laps. But I could tell Jim Arbuckle wanted to go for a lap on the field. I tried to stick to Jim’s wheel like glue, but it was like trying to stay behind a motorcycle. Finally Arbuckle’s partner, von Angel, the Marine, shot around Gus just after the spring. Gus and the field started trailing behind. I tore down the banking and Gus gave me a hell of a hand sling and I tucked onto Arbuckle’s wheel just as he and von Angel had made their exchange. We were clear of the field. Jim was going so fast I could not even trade pace with him. But he didn’t seem to give a damn. He thundered around the track. After eight laps of blistering pace, with exchanges, we gained three-quarters of a lap. Gus and I were ahead on points so I thought we had the race in the bag.

I could hear the crowd roar. The announcer kept calling out the prize money being collected from the crowd for the first team to gain a lap. It was now up to $200, and as I heard the bell for the spring I thought: Just 10 more minutes and our win will be history.

Suddenly I heard what sounded like one of the 105 Howitzers I had fired in the Marines. Then my front wheel collapsed. Disintegrated is more like it. Vince not only bombed his tyres, he used 28 hole rims instead of 36, and they were laced tight. The spokes sounded like a harp as they spun through the air. Before I could regain my senses Gus’s goons had a new wheel on my machine, and had me mounted on the bike and strapped in. I looked up to see Jim Arbuckle sprint into the back of the pack, he had gained his lap. Gus’s handlers shoved me just ahead of the oncoming field and shouted their chorus, “Come on, kid, you gotta help Gussie out.” But I’d had it. It was all I could do to stay with the field the rest of the race.

The gun went off and Arbuckle and von Angel were circling the track waving to the cheering crowd. They’d deserved their win. I couldn’t complain. We’d taken second place, and won good money in the sprints. I looked up at Arbuckle, smiling. He’d gotten back at us for the ribbing we’d given him about his uncle, Fatty Arbuckle.

*Because the relief rider is also circling slowly on the track. But he cannot ride too slowly on the 55 degree banking, otherwise he will fall.

Author Erich Von Neff is a San Francisco Longshoreman.

Story from John Vonderlin

Email John ([email protected])

Hi June,

This article from the June 16th, 1875 issue of “The Daily Alta,” tells of the construction of the Montara Fog Signal. What I found most interesting was the article’s mentioning of the troubles at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse from their hard water. Could that be a partial answer to the recurring claims by sailors who survived wrecked ships, that no fog signal was heard before they went aground. Imagine the exhausted lighthouse keeper, after experiencing several sound blasts a minute, for days on end, during the periods when the fog doesn’t lift. Finally, in a delirium of sleeplessness, caused by thousands of rude awakenings, a valve clogs with scale from the boiler and the whistle is finally silent. To expect some inner psychic alarm to ignore the body’s protests and propel the poor, besotted lightkeeper back to full consciousness is unrealistic. ZZZZZZZZZZ. I’m almost there just thinking about it.

Enjoy. John

FOG SIGNAL AT POINT MONTARA

The Light House Board gives notice  that on and after March 1st,  a steam fog-signal will be sounded at Point Montara, California, during thick. and foggy weather, giving a blast of  5 seconds, with an interval ot 35 seconds, then a blast of 18 seconds, to be followed by an interval of 20 seoonds. The fog-signal house  and keeper’s dwelling are low structures painted white, situated 60 yards apart. The approximate position of the light-house, as taken from the Coast Survey Charts, is as follows : Latitude, 37° 33 north; Longitude, 122 31′ west.  Magnetic bearings and distances of prominent  objects are as follows : Point San Pedro, N. by W. 1/2 W., 3 1/2 nautical miles, Pillar Point. SE. by E., 2 3/4 nautical miles.

The San Mateo Times says :  The finishing touches are being put upon the  fog whistle to be located at Point Montara. The buildings are already erected. The keeper’s house is an elegant and’ commodious one, muoh more so than any we have ever seen belonging to the govemment on this Coast.  There is contained in the reservation about thirty acres of  land, on which there is a fine stream of water, which is an indispensable requisite for supplying the fog whistle and the wants ot the keeper and his assistants. The question of the quality of water which feeds the boilers of a whistle is an important one, as is readily instanced by the amount of trouble which the whistle at Pigeon Point gives to the keeper, on account of the alkali nature of the water from which his boilers are fed. The Point Montara whistle will be ready for service in a few days

To read Michaele Benedict’s new story: “A Terrifying Sea Tale,” please click here

If you cannot read the writing on the map, here is my translation:
Upper left corner: it says “warehouses,” and is surrounded by a square box shape. Outside the square it says: “Remnants of sidewalks from 1908, The Boom Year.”

(Before I forget, the ocean is at the top, and it says: “Beach.”)

Upper right corner (opposite the remnants from the Boom Year) it says: “Site of Old House” Also there are ‘gardens and cypress trees” surrounding the old house. At the entrance to the old house, it says: “Fancy White Pillar, 9-10 feet tall.”

Below the remnants from the Boom Year, we have “Princeton Ave.” and the L shaped building labeled “Inn.” Other nearby streets include “Broadway” and “Harvard.”

Today Harvard is a main road through Princeton passing by several new businesses including Maverick’s, Elegant Cheesecakes, and the place where they make beautiful ironwork gates and other specialties.

At the bottom of the page it reads:” 8 x 8 posts (2 x 2 planking) outlined.”

Finally there is a listing of a few streets including Columbia, Yale, Stanford, etc. By Etc., the mapmaker means that all the other streets are named after famous American universities.

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Hi June,

You have that interesting map of Princeton from the 1950’s. I thought you might like to add these two from 1863 and 1947. I also added a close-up of Whaleman’s Harbor ….